Exploring Tokyo
Shibuya Scramble has become a must-see place for every tourist who comes to Tokyo. It’s one of the first things people think of about Japan after Mt. Fuji. 1/320s 50mm F2.8 ISO 64.
It’s fair to say that Tokyo is a very different city to London. Though London was in part badly damaged by the blitz, much of its older idiosyncrasies remain and walking around you are exposed to a wide variety of architecture from the past millennia. London is also super diverse and international and couldn’t be more disconnected from the surrounding country if it tried. Tokyo on the other hand has lost much of its history through the ravages of war and natural disasters and while it may be home to most of the foreigners living in Japan, it’s still very much a Japanese city. It’s also a great deal cleaner and safer.
The Imperial Palace East National Gardens offer a green oasis in the city. 1/500s 50mm F1.8 ISO 80.
You can’t see the actual residence of the emperor but you can admire the buildings that guard the moat. 1/125s 50mm F2.8 ISO 80.
The moat is vast and open to the public. It’s amazing to think in spring these banks will be flowing pink with cherry blossom. 1/800s 50mm F2.8 ISO 64.
However, what draws people to Tokyo, at least photographically is either the pockets of old Edo (the city’s former name) or the brightest of bright lights that stand in contrast to the dim (but atmospheric) gloom of most European cities. Sometimes it feels like it isn’t even night. But it’s important to bear in mind that that isn’t most of Tokyo. Get used to seeing plenty of straight roads lined by steel, glass and concrete which doesn’t exactly set the imagination on fire. I found this out when I did a long walk from Tokyo to Shibuya station. Apart from an interesting blip at Roppongi the several miles I walked were a pretty dull affair. Imagine if the City of London was four miles long.
The gate to the Imperial Palace. The bridge is open to the public twice a year. 1/250s 50mm F2.8 ISO 64.
There was something very quaint about this police box with the cycle helmet hanging down. 1/1000s 50mm F1.8 ISO 64.
Shi Shi are stone lions that guard temples. 1/500s 50mm F1.8 ISO 64.
What also makes Tokyo different to London is that you can’t really point to a city centre in the same way. Yes, the interesting parts of London are spread out, but they are much more interconnected. Tokyo on the other hand has specific areas where things are all crammed in and in-between them are quiet residential areas. It seems crazy to be on a busy street full of tourists one moment and then one turn-off and you are on your own in a quiet neighbourhood but that really is what it is like. That is a running theme in Japanese culture and history, everything has its specific place.
Shibuya’s mega Don Quijote where tourists flock to buy souvenirs on the trip to Japan. 1/200s 50mm F1.8 ISO 64.
They have their own tribute to Hachiko, the dog famous for loyalty to his owner. For nine years he would return to Shibuya station and what for his owner to return, even though he’d passes away. 1/25s 50mm F2.8 ISO 64.
I don’t write this to put people off Tokyo, and I’m sure most tourists will have more things do to than time to see them, but it’s to paint a realistic picture of a very modern city. It has more in common with a American city than a European one, no matter what you see on Instagram. But it is very satisfying when you do stumble upon those pockets of interest and there’s often a lot to see when you find them.
A common sight in Japan are these plastic food replicas to show off what is being served inside. 1/200s 50mm F3.5 ISO 64.
Manhole covers in Japan are often decorated based on the city and prefecture they are found in. 1/100s 50mm F2.8 ISO 64.
In the West the swastika is a shocking symbol of the Third Reich. However in Japan and Asia more generally, it holds its original meaning as a Buddhist symbol of peace. You’ll see it at every Buddhist temple. 1/15s 39mm F5.6 ISO 64.
My initial journeys through the city took me to the Imperial Palace and to Asakusa with the famous Senso-ji Temple (a fun fact for non-Japanese speakers is that Asakusa and Senso-ji share the same Kanji but utilise different readings). These two areas are very much symbols of old Tokyo and attract a proportionate number of tourists. Unfortunately, unlike Buckingham Palace you can’t get close to the emperor’s actual residence but there’s plenty of traditional wooden buildings on the ramparts bordering the moat. You know something special is being guarded. The bridge in the foreground of all the photos you see online is closed to the public except for two days of the year, the 2nd of January and the emperor’s birthday. I look forward to visiting, probably on both.
The pine trees outside the imperial palace. Perhaps it is how they are maintained, but the pine trees in Japan look much different to the ones in Europe. 1/500s 50mm F2.8 ISO 64.
As many interesting things there are to see in Tokyo, much of the city is also uniform monotony. 1/1250s 50mm F2.8 ISO 64.
This traditional tiger painting caught my attention as I walked through the city. 1/125s 50mm F2.8 ISO 64.
As dig this match-up between a dog and Godzilla. 1/80s 50mm F1.8 ISO 64.
Asakusa and Senso-ji is an experience closer to that of Kyoto than the rest of Tokyo. Here you will see a lot of people walking around in (rented) kimonos, as well as being transported by rickshaws that are notably absent from the rest of the city. The big crimson red temple buildings stand out dramatically amongst the more modern surroundings, though if you stand in the right place there is a good juxtaposition between the temple and the Tokyo Skytree, the third tallest building in the world. They couldn’t be more different. Unless you come early or on a very wet day expect big crowds. But as you walk around, keep an eye out for small temples hidden down side streets.
Senso-ji Temple is the symbol of old Tokyo. 1/160s 26mm F5.6 ISO 64.
Old meets new. 1/30s 50mm F11 ISO 400.
The shopping alleys in Asakusa are more decorative than the other ones I’ve seen in Tokyo. 1/60s 50mm F2.8 ISO 125.
Of course, you can’t really say you’ve been to Tokyo unless you’ve walked across the Shibuya Scramble (and recorded the life-changing moment on your phone). Who’d have thought with all the history and culture Japan has to offer that the most recognisable tourist attraction would be a road crossing. But traffic lights aside Shibuya is an exciting and dynamic place to visit with plenty of bars and those bright lights that attract tourists like moths to a flame. You may even have Japanese people ask to interview you as happened to me. Some of them are making videos for YouTube, others are doing research for business ideas in tourism.
Skyscrapers like the Shibuya Hikarie dominate the centre of Tokyo. 1/800s 50mm F2.8 ISO 64.
Being a fan of the Abroad in Japan YouTube channel I paid a visit to the new Lost bar in Shibuya. The first time I went it was a Tuesday, the one day of the week that it is closed! 1/50s 50mm F1.8 ISO 100.
This blog barely even scratches the surface when it comes to what makes Tokyo, Tokyo. Shopping is another huge dimension with Akihabara and Shinjuku being huge hubs for tax free shopping sprees. Given how weak the yen is right now I imagine the amount of foreign currency flooding in is mighty. I myself can hardly say I’ve seen everything either and I’m going to enjoy getting to know all the different parts during my year of living here. Thankfully I have the time to find all those hidden gems and hopefully some of them will make an appearance on this blog in time.
Koi brighten the ponds in the vicinity of Senso-ji. 1/2s 70mm F9.0 ISO 64.
The curated tree ring at Kiyomizu Kannon-do Temple is another popular and famous photo spot at Ueno. 1/100s 31.5mm F5.6 ISO 100.
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