From Mt. Takao to Sagamiko

The view from the top of Mt. Takao. The pylons almost look superimposed. 1/250s 70mm F4.0 ISO 500.

One of the things that really excited me about Tokyo was not what is in the city, but what surrounds it. Mountains, lots and lots of mountains. That’s in stark contrast to the South and East of England where we get giddy over gentle rolling hills. What makes it even better is that many of these mountains are also easily accessible with public transport, be that train and/or bus, so you don’t have to miss out just because you don’t have a car. The most frequently visited mountain (though at 599m it is more of a very big hill) is Mt. Takao and if you speak to anyone who lives in Tokyo about hiking, this is likely the first words that’ll come tumbling out of their mouths. But just because it won’t give you altitude sickness doesn’t mean it isn’t worth visiting.

The beginning of the hike is steep but well paved. 1/250s 70mm F4.0 ISO 4000.

The trail is well marked but temples related structures such as the Takaosan Yakuoin Joshinmon Gate. 1/60s 24mm F4.0 ISO 640.

The lanterns would light the way in the dark. 1/40s 28.5mm F4.0 ISO 640.

Getting there is very straightforward, you either get to Takao Station on the Chuo Line from Tokyo or take the Keio line from Shinjuku to Takaosanguchi (translating as ‘the mouth of Mt. Takao’) which is the closest station to the start of the hike. Either will do, just don’t forget to stock up on supplies from your nearest konbini (especially water if it’s a hot day). However, being a touristy area in Japan there are a lot of vendors selling food on the way up, including dango (Japanese rice dumplings) which Takao seems to be well known for, and there’s no shortage of vending machines. The path from top to bottom is well-laid and you’ll have no chance of getting lost, you’ll hardly be the only ones walking it either.

These orb weaving joro spiders seem to be everywhere in Japan and are even more numerous in the countryside. 1/200s 24mm F4.0 ISO 4000.

I am unsure what all this writing is for, perhaps it’s Buddhist scripture. 1/100s 24mm F4.0 ISO 1250.

Hiashaku used for the Temizuya cleansing ceremony before entering a temple. 1/250s 47mm F4.0 ISO 1250.

As well as good views of Tokyo you’ll also be rewarded with a visit to the resident temple Takaosan Yakuōin Yukiji, founded in 744 by Emperor Shomu. Another great thing about Japan is that many shrines and temples are often on the tops of mountains which ticks just about every box for some who likes the outdoors and Japanese culture. On the way to the summit, you’ll see constant reminders of this religious presence with lanterns and torii gates. For the less adventurous you could end it here and perhaps if you are really unfit go back down using the cable car, but from the summit there are many other paths that take you beyond Takao. Places that also have train stations.

Inside one of the Buddhist shrines. 1/13s 27.5mm F4.0 ISO 400.

The final stairs to Takaosan Yakuoin Yukiji Temple. 1/200s 34.5mm F4.0 ISO 400.

Takaosan Yakuoin Yukiji Temple. 1/200s 24mm F4.0 ISO 400.

Given I had the time I decided to carry onto Sagamiko and Lake Sagami and it’s from this point that things got much more interesting. Once you get beyond Takao the number of walkers drop off a cliff (figuratively not literally) and the ones you do pass all seem to be carrying bear bells. Slightly ominous when you don’t have any, but bear encounters here are still very rare. The paths get narrower and there is less and less English on the signs. Eventually I reached the steep descent down to the village of Chigira and things were a lot rougher. Gone were the well paved roads and in its place steep and muddy tracks. Best to have decent hiking boots. I didn’t see a single other person walking in the other direction.

Being so close, Mt. Takao gives great views of Tokyo. 1/800s 70mm F4.0 ISO 200.

At the summit. 1/250s 40mm F4.0 ISO 500.

Instead of going back the same way I continued on the path to Sagamiko. 1/15s 24mm F4.0 ISO 160.

Chigira was the first time I’d visited a Japanese village and also the first time I’d seen a rice paddy. A world away from Tokyo. No tower blocks of flats, just slightly shabby-looking wooden houses with sizeable gardens. From there I headed over Benten Bridge and the Sagami River, following the latter until I headed back over the Sagami Dam and into the town of Sagamiko. Benten Bridge itself is very scenic, as it extends out from the surrounding trees.

I had a surprising encounter with a giant earthworm. It’s hard to get a sense of the scale, but I didn’t realise these existed in Japan. 1/50s 70mm F4.0 ISO 640.

Some of the cafes were closed after the busy summer period. These empty bottles were a sign of the seasonal roaring trade. 1/60s 64mm F4.0 ISO 1000.

The final descent was a much rougher walk then going up the other side. 1/8s 24mm F4.0 ISO 1000.

I arrived in the village of Chigira which is a world away from Tokyo. 1/160s 39mm F4.0 ISO 800.

I arrived on the shores of Lake Sagami just after sunset, which also meant that all the amenities in the town were closed as all the visitors had already gone home. This place must look stunning in Autumn, but when I went it was still very much summer in Japan with every leaf being green. That’s not to say I wasn’t impressed in the moment and looking at all the moored up rental boats, it’s not hard to see why people would come in numbers to visit. Especially if you live in the hectic city and as it’s easy to get here by train. As the light faded away, I took a couple of more moody shots, including of a payphone, which still seems to be a fixture across the country. I think it’s only more recently that mobile phone reception has improved in the countryside to the point where you can question whether these phones are necessary, but as these rural areas tend to be populated by older people, old habits die hard.

Benten Bridge spanning over the Sagami River. 1/13s 34.5mm F4.0 ISO 64.

An encounter with a waterfall after crossing the bridge. 1/2s 24mm F4.0 ISO 64.

The multi-purpose Sagami Dam provides hydroelectric power as well as flood control. 1/15s 27mm F4.0 ISO 320.

Sagamiko and the surrounding landscape. I’ll definitely be coming back here. 1/50s 24mm F4.0 ISO 1250.

The return journey was very straightforward, taking a train back to Takao and then onwards to Tokyo. It's great that the trains are so extensive that I didn’t have to limit my hiking to one area. The Chuo line extends much further west than Sagamiko which means there are more options for hiking in the future, especially as the travel costs are also not very high. A round trip may not even cost you £10 depending on where you are coming from. If you are here in Autumn then definitely make the trip, but even if it’s a different season visiting will give you a much more rounded view of what Japan has to offer.

The largest swan boat I’ve ever seen. 1/10s 47mm F4.0 ISO 640.

As soon as I saw this telephone box I knew I had to photograph it. 1/20s 24mm F4.0 ISO 2000.

The train station has a more dramatic sign than most. 1/10s 52mm F4.0 ISO 800.

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