Halloween in Tokyo

The local Yokai out enjoying Halloween in Kabukicho. Thankfully it was only Shibuya that was completely shut down. 1/200s 50mm F1.8 ISO 1000.

Halloween, arguably the most commercial event of the year after Christmas, at least in America that is. But that heavy American influence has spread to many parts of Asia and the Halloween gatherings in cities like Tokyo had become legendary, as thousands of costumes wearing revellers gathered in the centre of the city. But the disaster in Seoul two years ago where one hundred and fifty-nine people were killed due to overcrowding, as well as the general discontent over years of littering and public drinking problems has meant that the authorities are doing much to crack down.

In Shibuya Hachiko Square was blocked off and police officers were directly people in the area. 1/5s 50mm F2.5 ISO 64.

However there were a few people here in costume. 1/200s 50mm F1.8 ISO 1000.

Nearby was a man blasting out very loud music in a very un-Japanese fashion. Unsurprisingly there were plenty of police officers around him. 1/200s 50mm F1.8 ISO 3200.

As this may be my only Halloween in Japan, I decided to head to the city centre in any case to see what was happening and what people were up to. First, I headed to Shibuya which ‘traditionally’ was the main focus point for Halloween in Tokyo. However, for the second year running it was officially cancelled in Shibuya, with police having the whole area partially locked down and under tight control. Hachiko Square was blocked off and the famous crossing was roped off by police, forcing people to move around in a make-shift one-way system. People were actively discouraged from coming here in costume and there really wasn’t much to see. The few people who were in costume were probably just passing through on their way to and from the train station. Though in its own way the policing effort itself was a sight to behold. Perhaps more was happening at Shinjuku and I made my way there on foot.

The crossing was heavily controlled by police officers. 1/200s 50mm F1.8 ISO 1000.

Everyone was forced to move one-way in a circular fashion. 1/200s 50mm F1.8 ISO 1000.

Shibuya still attracted a lot of media attention. 1/200s 50mm F1.8 ISO 1000.

During the two-mile walk I really didn’t see a great deal related to Halloween, though it was amusing seeing people doing wheelies on their motorbikes in Harajuku. Sadly, I didn’t get any photos of that. Initially arriving in Shinjuku, it didn’t seem much was happening here either, but I spotted a few local marshals who were holding no-drinking signs and I followed them to Kabukicho where finally I found a sizable gathering of people in costume very appropriately outside the Toho Cinema with Godzilla looking down on us all.

I didn’t see many people in costume on the walk from Shibuya to Shinjuku but I did spot these two Power Rangers. 1/200s 50mm F1.8 ISO 1000.

In Shinjuku marshals were walking around with no drinking signs. 1/200s 50mm F1.8 ISO 1000.

There was also a heavy police presence at Kabukicho but overall the atmosphere was much more relaxed. 1/200s 50mm F1.8 ISO 1000.

There was also a heavy police presence here as well, but things overall were much more relaxed. There were fewer people, more space and no traffic which meant people could just enjoy themselves, whether it was showing off their costumes or taking pictures. The most shocking outfit was definitely the woman walking around in what can only be described as lingerie which showed off all her body tattoos, reminiscent of something you’d expect from the Yakuza. I believe they were all real as well, certainly not something you see everyday in Japan. Fittingly the friend she was with was dressed as a police officer, of sorts. There were plenty of other more normal costumes however, including the aforementioned Godzilla, video game characters and various Yokai.

I was very taken aback by this women’s full body tattoos. I guess this is one of the few days of the year she can show them off in public without causing controversy. She walked around with her ‘police’ escort. 1/200s 50mm F1.8 ISO 1000.

However there were many more normal cosplays like Cammy from Street Fighter. 1/200s 50mm F1.8 ISO 1000.

And also an aged Mario who seems to have eaten too many mushrooms whilst on holiday. 1/200s 50mm F1.8 ISO 1000.

I think in Tokyo Halloween has shifted from being a big outdoor public event to one mostly hosted inside bars and clubs where the numbers of people can more easily be controlled and where you can of course drink. Essential. It’s a pity I never got to see Shibuya on Halloween at its peak, but I wouldn’t want a repeat of the incident in Seoul and I was still happy to have seen and photographed what I did. But admittedly I am looking forward to seeing more traditional Japanese events as the months pass by.

Jason with his latest victim. 1/200s 50mm F1.8 ISO 1000.

Godzilla(s) had to show up at some point for Halloween in Tokyo. 1/200s 50mm F1.8 ISO 1000.

Especially as the granddaddy was looking down on us from on high. 1/200s 50mm F1.8 ISO 1000.

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